Thursday, December 24, 2009

"Hey BA - Why Are You A Half Man?"

It has taken me almost 5 years to get over the fact that I'm kneeboarding rather than vertically surfing.

After multiple broken bones and multiple surgeries for a variety of issues, I have finally come to grips with the fact that when the waves are hollow, I'll be on my knees.

I started kneeboarding when I found I was letting good waves go by because I did not think I could stand-up quickly enough to make the take-off.

After all, the stoke I've always had from more than 50 years of surfing was the take-off, the drop, the first turn and then setting-up for...hopefully...a bit of a tube ride.